There is a great amount of information on the NACR website about what you need to know when it comes to choosing a breeder and puppy. WE offer some additional thoughts here - both humorous and concrete.      

• Scratch your puppy's ears all the time.
• Rub your puppy's belly all the time.
• Give your puppy all the toys it wants.
• Play with all the toys with your puppy all the time.
• When your puppy gets tired let it snuggle in your lap for a nap all the time.
• If your puppy isn't doing any of the above then take it for a walk in the sunshine.

• Crate training is VERY good for both you and your dog. It is not inhumane - rather the opposite: your puppy/dog will be more secure all through its life - its crate becomes its den and special place. Crate a young puppy and take him out every hour (each time telling him "outside for potty" or what ever the key words are -and praise when he goes), then gradually extend the time in between. Give him some supervised time in an enclosed area out of the crate several times a day. Place his bed and some toys in the crate; dogs will not soil where they eat or sleep. If he cries at first  - let him work it out. Don't surrender to her or she will learn that she can control you in that regard. 
• Feed a premium dry puppy food. Better for your pup, easier cleanup in the pooperscooping department, and less expensive in the long run since your dog will eat less due to the high nutritional content.
• Be consistent in your pup's schedule and in the commands you use for training. Each person in the household should do the same. Be patient - some dogs learn faster than others.
• Get your pup used to grooming as soon as you bring her home - brush, comb, bath, nails clipped - work at it gradually but consistently. You should brush/comb him at least once a week.
• Introduce all but the youngest pup to a collar and allow her to get used to it - get an ID tag and keep it on. You pup will probably be frustrated by it at first but it won't take long to be accepted. Even the most protected and well-trained pet can make a break for it when least expected.
• Secure the services of a vet and be prompt with all shots as needed. Keep your pup away from other dogs until fully vaccinated. Follow you vet's suggestions for well puppy/dog care all of its life.
• Have chew toys at the ready. If your pup gets a fix on something that isn't his, tell him "no" and redirect him to one of his toys. Biting or mouthing is part of a dog's life - it's how they explore their world. Discourage strong mouthing by saying "ouch" or some other command to let him know that he's gone too far. If he's determined, try some Bitter Apple spray on items that are off limits - especially electrical cords and potentially toxic items.
• Remember that young pups are babies - literally. They need love, security and consistency. The first nights it might help to place her crate in a room where you are sleeping - she'll know you're near and not be so frightened and lonely. While they are sturdy, they are not indestructible. Be sure that everyone knows the proper way to pick him up (hand under butt and chest) - hold him in a secure and comfortable position (many like their butts to feel secure rather than dangling from your arms).
• If there's an accident - clean it up. It does not aid training to rub your pup's nose or face in it, or for that matter other wise "punish" if you have not caught him in the act. If you do - scoop her up, tell her no, take her out and encourage her to go. If she does - praise. Remember that no dog can control it's bladder and bowels at will until he or she ia at least three months old.
• Small dogs will be full grown at earlier ages - but all of that first year they are still a "puppy" - learning, exploring, you name it. And yes, it goes on all of their lives too - but remember that even if your dog "looks" full grown it is still maturing, emotionally and intellectually. And even physically - feed puppy food for the full first year.
• How well your puppy develops emotionally and intellectually will depend on the stimulation and reinforcement you give him. Talk to him, teach him, praise him, love him - and be patient. It's an ongoing process. Your dog will give unconditinal love - but it still depends on you, not only for food and shelter but also for all of it's emotional needs too. Nurture its natural love and intelligence and you'll have a companion that will amaze you.

The demand for cockapoos is being coming great - which means that you need to be careful about your breeder. Most all are proper businesses selling true cockapoos - but like anything popular, there are bound to be some folk out there that will try to pass a cute puppy off as a cockapoo. Please see the NACR   site for advice on choosing a breeder, and puppy. You also need to know some ins ands outs of fees and deposits. A deposit will "hold" the purchase of an item. In the case of for example, going to look at a puppy and deciding that it will be yours, but you need a few days to get the "stuff", then you may give the breeder a deposit aganst the price of the puppy, which will be deducted from the total price of the puppy when you return to pick it up. If you do not claim it, the breeder, after a resonable and/or agreed upon time may indeed sell "your"puppy" - and may or may not return your deposit. Your deposit was an act of good faith that the puppy was indeed sold, and for that period of time the breeder considered it sold and did nto let it be avialable for sale to any other person. In all likelihood a sale was lost, and against that if you do not followup with completing your purchase, it is perfectly legal for the breeder to keep your deposit and you default it.

        Waiting lists are often maintained by breeders in order to try to meet the demand for cockapoos in general, and specific wants in particular. Many people want a 'poo but they want a certain color and/or sex too... so breeders will create waiting lists to try to satisfy these desires from future litters. Maintaining a waiting list is work - it's not just keeping a list of names and phone numbers... it is keeping track of who is up next for what color and what sex or both... contacting everyone each time a litter is born to see if one meets the desires of those coming the closest and when not figuring it all out again, and then as they are declined continuing on with everyone else to see if they want to change their desired color or sex in order to finally get a puppy rather than to keep waiting and hoping... believe me it is work. Breeders will charge a waiting list fee for these services, and it is well earned. Most always the waiting list fee will be applied to the final price of your puppy. But - if you choose eventually to not take a dog, the breeder is not obligated to refund the waiting list fee... they have put a lot or work and time into having you on it.
 
 

Puppy purchase - averages around $500. Then add in: Full vaccinations, depending on how many your breeder has given at the time you get the dog (remaining as given by a vet) - $150 (DHP, Parvo/Corona, Bordatella, Rabies and Lyme). Spaying/neutering - $100. License (depends on state/town and if spayed/neutered - $7. The "stuff" - bed, collar, leash, grooming essentials, toys - $50-$75 and up.

Annual care/maintenance: Food - $85. Annual vaccinations - $100. Tick/flea and Heartworm prevention - $150.

Last updated 3/03              Email Puffin's Web Master

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